The Trankei and Bulungula

So I'm not breaking a for a moment with this updating blog thing. I just posted the bungee jumping and the Kichaka game reserve and now we are onto what I would call our first dive into something that feels a little more like Africa: The Transkei.

The Transkei is the section of land just being the Kei river and is characterized by big rolling hills with what looks like lots of pastel round houses no top. This is one of the only places in South Africa which was not conquered and is home to the Xhosa people. The X in Xhosa is actually a click so all you guys back home who've seen Russel Peters second live performance; this is the the language he's making jokes about. Enough with the history, back to the trip.

We woke up at Buccaneers before dawn and packed up and hit the road in time to watch the sun rise again. Our first destination was Coffee Bay to see the 'Hole in the Wall'. We reach Coffey Bay sometime around noon, ate lunch and head on to the Hole.

The Hole in the wall is a beautiful beach with an maybe 50 meter off short that has a giant hole through it. The beach was amazing: sandy with rocks surrounded by the most inviting forest with opening for camping. On the far left of the island with the hole there was some see cliffs made of what looked like Basalt. They were almost begging to be climbed.

Picture: Karina, Dion and Julie at the Hole in the Wall.

We spent some time wandering the beach and through the forest, soaking up the beauty of the place. After maybe an hour we had to move on as there was a 45 minute hike into Bulungula the backpackers were were going to stay at this night. I didn't want to leave but if we stayed we wouldn't have been able to enjoy the afternoon at Bulungula.

Bulungula is the best backpackers in South Africa. This is a bold statement but having been there and had the like of Buccaneer's backpacker(another very good packpackers) staff tell me as much I don't think its far from the truth. The backpackers is located at the mouth of a river and is made up of traditional Xhosa huts (mud and dung floors and walls) with beautiful beachs and bays to either side. Its protected from the winds off of the Indian oceans by a burm and a stand of trees. They have drums, amazing local Xhosa food cooked by the nearby village, a fire pit and great music.

I will only cover the highlights since this place to me was so special and sharing it with my Karina, my sister and new friend Dion was amazing and can't capture the magic of the place.
The first night some other people staying there, Dion and I drummed by the fire for quite some time. Joseph and Lindiley being notable characters.

The next morning Karina and I saw dolphins feeding and jumping in the bay just beyond the river mouth. After breakfast we hiked part way down the beach towards a hidden beach but never made it. Instead we did some body surfing and soaking up the untouch beauty of the place.

On our walk back we met a group of children from the nearby village and they started playing the drum we brought with us for the day. Dion and I did some cappoeira with the kids on the beach. Doing cartwheels and rolls to the beat of the drum. That night we ate an amazing vegetarian Xhosa meal with striking flavours and texture.

Picture: Me and the kids from on the beach at Bulungula.

The next days we resolved to make it to the hidden beach. Set out earlier this time and move quickly. The kids from the previous day joined us as did a german software programmer (forgot his name). After not too long we felt the need to break away from the kids and asked them to give us some space. We crossed a headland and onto the next beach.

At this point the beach ended and we all hiked up onto a steep hill overlooking the beach and looking back towards Bulungula. The wind was gently blowing off the water. We took in the beauty and untouch nature of the land here. It was an amazing experience. Karina and I walked to the top and then found a beautiful place to look out over the Indian Ocean. We stood there side by side taking in the smell, sound and beauty of the place. We probably wouldn't have left till night fall but Julie and Dion reminded us of our destination.

Picture: Beachs looking back at Bulungula at the tip on the upper left of the picture.

We continued along the hill top for another 5 minutes before we spotted 4 butterflies sitting on three blades of grass. We again paused to enjoy such unique beauty in such an amazing place. With some light left we continued on to find the hidden beach as the sun grew close to the horizon. With the beach in site we turned back resolving to visit the beach tomorrow and stay another day.

We hiked back, watch the sun set from on top of the hills. The colour of the sky and clouds was beyond words and by the moon light we hiked back. This time not taking the same way we had come we waked over top of the hills instead of crossing the rockie head land we had used to come. Now this whole hike to this point had been done without shoes on and we continued into the night this way. The grasses and land in this area was so gentle but we soon discovered there were parts at the top of some of the hills that had prickle bushes. Rocks, soil, prickles, grass, sand, they were all amazing to experience through our feet. The sensations were amazing, something I had never realized I was missing. How many of us in Vancouver have hiked barefoot. I also realized I have never slept under the stars before. The closest thing I had come to this was in Australia where I slept in a swag.

Picture: Karina and I watching the stars at sunset.

Picture: Karina loving the beach and Ociean at Bulungula.

Wound our way back down to the beach after crossing many hill tops. Then Dion, Julie and I went skinning dipping in the surf. Dion and I stayed out in the water body surfing. Julie and Karina were cold and headed back to Bulungula early. Dion and I headed in after enjoying the surf and arrived back to Bulungula just before dinner. That night Dion played music for us from his iPod till the wee hours.

The next day I discovered I had forgotten the Rayban sunglasses that Karina had given to me as a gift on the beach when we were body surfing the night before. Dion and I went back to the location to see if we could find them but they were not there. Instead we spent the morning body surfing together.

Julie and Karina had gone to the beach in the opposite direction of the hidden beach near a sand dune. They had made this into a nudist beach and were relaxed into soak up the sun. Dion and I joined them and we did some more body surfing. We returned from the day to eat and relax. Our time at Bulungula was drawing to a close and we had to pack up for our 7 AM shuttle back to the car.

The car drive back was long as we made the entire return trip home in one long push. The beds of Wilderness were welcome when we arrived back late that night. The next day Julie flew home and Karina and I started planning for our trip to Cedarberg.

Kichaka, and Bungee Jumping...

Well this should amount to a busy post. I'm trying to catch up after nearly a month of amazing traveling.

I'll start this post with Julie, Dion, Karina and I leaving Wilderness to head up the Transkei. Our first day wasn't far, we were going to Bloukrans bridge to do the highest bungee jump in the world - 216m (720ft).

This road trip would be done South Africa style; rolling out in Dion's little Nissan truck, Karina and I sitting in the back with Dion and Julie in the cab. Karina was wearing these awesome tiger pants and some overall shorts. The reason I'm describing this is that she looked a bit like a character from a childrens television show. It was hilarious! The Bloukran bridge was a short drive away; maybe 2 hours and in short order we were out and getting our gear on.

Picture: Karina and I in the back of Dion's Buckie (truck)

Now I have never bungee jumped before so I don't have any idea as to what to expect but I have been getting really calm like I do before a big multipitch climb. It seems that through climbing I've started to relax before doing things I perceive to be scary. I have jumped out of an airplane before when I was in Australia. The 14000ft sky dive was great but I think it was easier since I couldn't see the ground and I was attached to someone. I think the decision to jumping off a perfectly good bridge and you can see the ground below you takes a different level of commitment.

To warm up for the jump we took a zip line to the center of the bridge. the zip line was called the Flying Fox and covered the distance from the edge of the ravine to the jump platform. The 30 second ride was a nice warm up and in moment we were all at the Bungee platform.

They do the jumps by weight and since I was the heaviest I would have to go last. Karina started going to the edge and without hesitation did a beautiful swan dive off the edge. Julie and I were able to watch on a close circuit video feed that was showing on the platform. She looked effortless and graceful.

The brought K back up and got Julie into position for her jump. Karina and I watch this time from the other side of the platform where you can look down to see the jumper. Julie jumped and sailed into the abyss below.

My turn came soon and I was standing at the edge. You can't walk to the edge so you have two guys drag you there. These moments leading to the jump where they attache the cord to you feet was good. It was a nervous excitement, the anticipation of something while not letting my brain hijack my precense with thoughts of how it would be. Now at the edge looking down I realized how how we were.

The technicians allowed the cord to gently slide off the platform to hang in the air below. A gentle weight tugs my feet as I stand at the edge resisting the urge to pull back against the tug. The technicians the count to three and I launch myself into the space below.

Picture: Me Bungee Jumping.

The thing I remember was seeing the concrete fall away above me as I accelerated down and the rush of the wind. I'm not afraid but I feel myself tensing up as the weird tickle in my stomach takes hold from the acceleration. I tell myself to relax and enjoy the moment of freedom. My jaw unclenches not having realize I was tense there. The moment is quite and I feel the next 4 seconds of free fall at peace knowing I am here.

The cable starts to elogate and I'm slowing down. My smile spreading across my face as the blood rushes to my cheeks and then I go sailing back up in the air. I try do spins in the air on my way back up using my arms as a skate would in a spin. It works but only marginally.

A minute of bouncing and wigging like a worm on the end of a hook and then a smiling face shows up to clip me in and raise me back up to the jumping platform. I relax in the harness and wait; enjoying the last moments of hanging in free space.

Picture: Julie and Karina doing one of their legendary self portraits. Notice Tiger Pants

Having all jumped (Dion was taking pictures only) we headed back to the car for some Sparking Wine that J and K had bought for the occation while on the wine tour in Robertson. The time getting late we headed back to Nature's Valley where could get out and walk on the beach before retiring to a wonderful backpackers called the Wild Tongue.

The next morning Karina and I were up before the sun. We started the day by doing some stretching and yoga on the deck while watching the sun rise over Nature's Valley. This would prove to be a good start to the day since our destination was Kichaka private game reserve. We hoped to be there by 2PM so we could go out on safari in the afternoon.

The drive was not terribly exciting with the exception of getting slightly lost on route due to sketchy directions from the cook at the lodge. We arrived around 3PM to meet Darryl who would be a guide while at the reserve.

I have to say, Kichaka was top shelf, a five star establishment. Our bag were carried into our rooms which was breath taking. I regret not taking a picture of the interior but that is life. The wood finish was amazing. The decks look out of a water hole where the animal would come to drink. The bathroom was beautiful and raise up just behind the bed. The windows were massive, you could see out into the grasslands from any point in the hut.

We had a quick tea and set out on Safari. The wind was really blowing so we weren't holding our breath that the animal would be out since they usually take cover when its windy.

Darryl was extremely knowledgable and taught us about the local plans and insects as well as the animals. We tried eating termites which I have to say were quite good. They taste of cinnamon. I forgot most of the plants he told me about. I could remember them if I saw them but I couldn't recall the names.

In short order he had sported a mother and baby rhino which we were able to approach quite closely in the truck. We got some good pictures before moving on for a nice sundown location where he broke out the bar.

The sun down was breath taking in South Africa. The sun changes such a wonderful shades of organe and red, something that we miss because the show is hidden by the mountains in Vancouver. On our drive back to the compound we saw an Ardvark running through the night.

Dinner was rich and we didn't stay up late because the sun-up Safari started at 6 AM. The morning was cold but we had a few glasses of tea and coffee to warm us up. The predawn light was tickling the horizon when we started out.

Picture: Lions

We drove across the property stopping only to take in the sunrise which was as glorious as the sunset. Darryl in a short time had located the two male lions on the property. We found them lieing in the grass at the bottom of a valley.

They were HUGE and beautiful. We were able to approach them to a distance of maybe 15 meters and got lots of great pictures. I have always loved cats and this was one of the biggest I had ever seen. We took the Lions in for about 20 minutes before setting off to find the Elephants.

Darryl was amazing at tracking the Elephant herd. We moved along the valley floor and found the herd at a branch in the road. It was funny to watch them tear clumps of grass from the ground with their trunks and then beat clump against the ground so that it would release the dirt from the roots before eating it. We saw some quite young elephants as well.

Picture: Elephants sniffing the air.

We drove out of the valley to find a location overlooking the Elephant herd to have morning tea and watch the herd through the binoculars. On the way back to the compound we saw some Hippo, Giraffe, Zebra and Hartbeast.

After a generous breakfast we packed up and hit the road as we had to cover some ground to make it up to the Transkie. We made it as far as Buccaneers Backpackers before we lost the light. So we spent the night.

That is a nice section for the first leg of our trip. I'm going to make another entries for the next few weeks. For more pictures click this link: More pics.

From Boven to Capetown.

I'm making a quick version of this entry and will post it but will likely make and update shortly to include pictures and more detail like the climbs I did on the ascent of Table Mountain. This will do for the quick update for now.

Karina joined me in Waterval Boven, it was good to finally see her in person instead of chatting on the internet all the time. Climbed a day, hiked the next. During our hike we found someone's stolen climbing equipement and thankfully though the Roc n' Rope lodge was able to return it to its owners.

Trip from Waterval Boven to Capetown was a little strenuous since we stayed up all night in the Joberg airport waiting for a our flight in the morning.

First day in Capetown was organizing our rides out to the garden route and Wilderness which is supposed to be amazing (on the Garden Route). I also tracked down a climbing partner and yesterday climb table mountain. Did the whole day from 8:30 AM to 6:30 PM. You have to hike about 75% of the height of the mountain to get to the start of the climbs. Needless to say I'm a touch tired today. I also was leading trad which means I was placing my own protected gear which is WAY more scary especially since I haven't done that type of climbing in 9 months. (Paul C will be so proud). ;) I did three routes that day. Two of which were 20-21, 19 but I don't know the names of them. The third one was the ultra classic "Jacobs Ladder" which got us to the top of the mountain just in the knick of time as the sun set and the last cable car was leaving.

Today we are going to Cape point and chilling on the beach before heading off down the garden route and doing some wine tours.