Final week in Southern France

Since the decision has been made to include the Rochers De Groseau at Malaucene, and since nobody not even the current English guide has treated this exceptional crag properly. In fact, I distrust the guide so much I'm not sure if I should even believe the route names. I suppose they sound french enough.... since the mission was to get the grades because the guy who wrote the English guide just walked around from the bottom and assigned a grade without climbing it and affix the infamous eyeball symbol next to it we had to climb them all for grading.

I was first up to check out some short scrappy looking routes on the far right side of the cliff.
I started by leading a climb called "Preview" which I gave a 5 (5.9) followed by top roping "Time Code" and "Polarisant", 6b+ (5.11a) and 6a+ (5.10c) respectively.

Adrian tagged in and quickly dispatched another three climbs of questionable grade before I got on the last unknown climb of the sector called "La Voie Lactee" a nice 6c (5.11b) that move up over broken pocketed rock at a slight overhang. After using some siege tactics of moving out of a rest and placing draws and checking out holds I managed to pull through the crux for the onsight but not without first placing my hand is a water filled pocket. It seems the endless rain storms we have been having have left their mark.

We packed up our thing and move to the far left side of the crag where not only were their more eyeball grades but also some new climbs. This first one I got on was an off vertical face climb that moved up the middle of what looked like a rib. The climb has no name and is not in the old guidebook so its anyones guess what its called. The climb was fun and a touch technical but the rock quality at the top started to fall off and I had to avoid crumbly hand and foot holds to clip the anchor. A 6a (5.10b) that I probably wouldn't recommend to anyone reading.

Next I did another unknown climb which I would give two stars for its excellent athletic moves and great position through the overhang which kicks back right at the start of the crux. If it wasn't for the knee bar mid-height on the climb it would probably be 7a+ but you get to get a really good shake out before you have to start hauling yourself up a 15 degree overhang on your arms and tacking with you feet using big moves on good to mediocre holds. Wonderful climb though I had trouble with the right arm lockoffs.

Adrian then got on a series of sharp hard pocketed overhang climbs which again were not in the guide book. He didn't enjoy himself much as various footholds were crumbling under his shoes. After a few epic belays and precious little skin remaining he returned to the ground and declared himself done.

At his recommendations I want up a three star 6c (5.11b) that he had left the draws in on his first run up the steep face we were working on. the moves were incredible! A couple pockets on overhanging limestone which you work you feet up on small holds then make three consecutive big moves to get into a nice hole where the angle turns to vertical climbing on really good but sometimes sharp pockets with technical sequences and footwork. The climb was an amazing way to finish the day off.

The last two days since then have been filled with rain and what I can only describe as a tempest. The brio blocks form the children upstairs were blasted off the deck above our gite and are now strewn about our door in various glowing primary colours.

Today, Tuesday April 22rd, we headed out into the maelstrom that was Malaucene to the Rochers de Groseau. It was our hope that the howling wind would be enough to dry out the pockets that we would have to pull on. Since the clouds and the wind were so uninspiring in the morning we delayed our departure from the gite till 1:45 PM. Some would say this was too late especially after having two days of rain and wind but the days are still long and the thought of standing around the base of the crag waiting for the wind to dry it out was not high on my list of things I wanted to do.

Adrian also wasn't feeling very perky today so I got the nod to dry. We reach Malaucene and with practice movements set about grabbing our bags and hiking into the base of the crag. To was yet another mission to reveal the true grades and nature of all the eyeballs that had been scattered about the old English guide.

Since I was the the one eager to climb today I got to start out. I picked a nice groove line that was the first in the on the right of the sector. I guessed at a grade of 6a+ (5.10c) from the ground and it was confirmed and two stars appended to it. I then top roped the climb immediately to its left, finding it too be a 6b (5.10d) and absolute joy, another two star route.

Adrian then stepped into play and made quick work of the warm up routes at the far left of the crag, both 6b+ (5.11a) but no stars and then moved on to a more serious climb that would turn out to be a 7b (5.12b). He set up a top rope on the climb immediately to the right again. This looked nice, with big moves on pockets, sightly overhanging and then up through an overhanging groove with little feet and slightly awkward body position as the groove prevents you from getting any really weight off you arms. The crux move is probably hanging 80% of your body weight off two fingers while you quickly get the other hand into a jug just about it. I had to dog my way to the top but a great climb which made me smile.

For my next climb I did what looked like hard and pumpy climb on slighty overhanging terrain and the ominous presence of a bail biner didn't help with my confidence. What looked nasty and brutish turned out to be the best three star route on the crag. I mean it was amazing, great climbing on huge pockets and holes with big moves, once through a technical crux you get to rest in a cave. Then the climbing goes to slightly less than vertical on technical terrain but juggy non the less.

For my last climb of the day I decided to get on what the guide book described as a 6c++ (5.11c - stiff) or that was what I guessed at. I didn't take me much past the first climb before I wandered a bit off route and fell on a deadpoint. That was the start of a epic belay session as I had grown tired from climbing near my limit for the earlier part of the day. The climb was a bit relentless with big moves on pockets through overhanging terrain that didn't offer as many foot holds as I would have liked. After flailing through the crux and climbing poorly I managed to get my way to the top. I graded it as stiff 7a (5.11d) because I certainly didn't use good technique in a few spots but it definitely would be quite the pump fest. I gave this one two stars as well because of the excellent position it gives you while climbing it.

I am not ready to doze off so I wish you all well.