Deep Water Soloing (DWS) in Barry Head

So after destroying myself in the climbing gym the night before Meilee and I made our way down to Berry Head near Brixham. The drive was a bit slower than intended as we diverted for a few errands: picking up oil (much needed), food and hit some traffic on the way.

We eventually rolled up at to the parking lot of the Nature Trust and since this was the first day that the area was open after the bird ban the parking lot was full of eager Deep Water Soloists (DWS). Meilee into it immediately saying hello to many of the people milling about the parking lot and introduced me around to some of them. I met “Mad Max”, Gavin (Meilee’s ex-boyfriend), Jo, Steve, Sarah among others. We all headed down to the a steep grass hill top overlooking the cliffs we would be climbing on and set down our lunch and towels.

Picture: Berry Head - The grass in the middle is where we picnic and directly under it is Rainbow Bridge.

Meilee, Jo, Steve, Matt and I set out on a long 7a+ called Rainbow Bridge. To get to it we had to scramble down to the waters edge a 25 meter decent down easy terrain. The route itself is a 150 meters right hand traverse about 8 meters above the water. Unfortunately for us it had be raining as we progressed across the route we found patches of it that were seeping or wet. Not to be deterred we quested on until near the end when we reach the crux where Matt and Jo managed to cross through and Meilee, Steve and fell off at various points through the tricky moves.

Welcome to the English channel Chris. Lets say the water was cold and I had forgotten my rash in the was at Meilee’s place back in Bristol. We tread water for a bit watching Matt make some moves into the 7c which continues after Rainbow bridge heads up. Matt made many of the moves climbing with his arms only and his legs dangling uselessly below him until he grew tired and joined us in the cold water.

We swam back to the place where we had made the decent from out picnic location which is also the exit from the water and climbed back up to the spot shivering and teeth chattering. I wasn’t done on the day yet so I headed over to White Rhino Tea area and tried to play on the route by the same name. When I got down to the location I quickly found that the tide was so high it was nearly impossible to make the traverse into the route without getting your feet wet. I did the much easier Humanize at 6a+ which didn’t require the traverse that White Rhino Tea did. Then decide that tide or no tide I was going to climb White Rhino. With my feet dangling into the water and my arms failing after the hand traverse cross the overhang I fell in.

After taking a few dips into the sea I decided it was too cold to stay and headed back to the parking lot as we were going to have a party and BBQ down at the old quarry which was located on the other side of the head. Meilee was waiting in the van as it was later than I had though, nearly 8:30PM. We headed down to the quarry and parked up for the night.

The BBQ was already in full swing and lucky for us there was some hot BBQs already going with coals already glowing. I made some salmon steaks with garlic while Meilee made a bunch of ribs and chicken for sharing around the fire. The night wasn’t as pleasant as it start to sprinkle and drizzle. We did have a party wagon just up the hill though, complete with Disco ball and lights as well as a fire to keep warm. Everyone gathered around up there till the early morning. I didn’t stay up late mind you, the cold water and climbing had drained me and I was ready for bed by midnight.

The next day proved to be a bit better with broken sun and clouds. We returned to White Rhino Tea area hoping for some sun to come around. This day the tides were much better and it was actually possible to get into the upward overhanging portion of the climb. I made one run and fell off just before the crux because I got pumped out on the vicious overhang.

Picture: Me getting smacked by White Rhino Tea, 7a.

Gavin decide he would take a spin on it as well so I followed him through the climb as he stayed two moves above me. I have to say this is probably the most interesting and unique thing about DWS, you can climb as a group and be close together so long as if someone infront/above you takes a fall they won’t hit you on the way down. It really is cool because it makes climbing that much more social and fun. I would make a move and then Gavin would point with his toe where the next hold was and how to use it. I made it to the crux this time grabbing the giant brick hold that just from the wall before pumping out and falling on the next move.

Picture: Falling off White Rhino Tea, 7a.

That evening Meilee was heading down to Swanage for some work on Monday but Steve and Jo and Amy were staying as well as Matt and a few others so I camped with them in a field (apparently this qualifies as a campground in the UK) which as washroom facilities. We all went to bed early that night in hopes of a better day.

The next day we started off nice and early when the sun came up. The day was cool but the sun was shining making the dew on our tents glisten and sparkle in the gentle breeze. I packed up some food, a towel, stove, climbing shoes and chalk for the mornings fun. I was a little slower off the blocks then the rest of the camp so I skipped breakfast in favor of cooking it at the crag.

Once at White Rhino I setup my stove in a protected ledge to cook some brown rice and avocado for breakfast while Steve, Jo and Pete warmed up. After breakfast I packed up stove and the food bag (a plastic bag) and headed back up to a good vantage point for observing everyone climbing that day. To do so required a easy but high traverse where you step down a few feet then across an exposed gap.

The move is not harder than 5.3 but you wouldn’t want to fall and the hand holds in this area are of questionable quality. I placed the plastic food back with my dirty pots, water bottle and leatherman on the ground, stepped down and then stepped across. When I went to move the food back across it snagged on some of the sharp limestone and tore open sending my food and cooking utensils tumbling the 15 meters down to the water below. Surprisingly I wasn’t upset by the situation, I watched in mute fascination as heavier items sank and the food sealed in plastic packages bobbed on the surface of the water.

I shrugged to myself and resolved to DWS that day so that if I fell into the water I would go retrieve my floating water bottle and the remaining food. I collect what remained of the items that hadn’t fallen off the cliff and finished the traverse put them down on the observation rim, put on my shoes and chalk and rashie (surf shirt).

To warm up I decided to do what I though was a 7a called Pink Roadster thinking I would surely fall in and clean up my floating mess. One of the Bristol boys, Pete, descended to the start to give me some help on making the moves as he had done it earlier. I made the moves through the roof section and then pulled up onto the face before moving up and right avoid the actual crux move of the climb. This variation I would guess would come at 6b+/6c.

Surprised that I was still dry I moved on to White Rhino Tea. I looked good and hard at the crux sequence that Gavin had showed me the day before and spotted the holds I needed to go to to make it pasted the overhang. I went into the traverse and it felt easier than before but I would say in large part due to knowing the holds. I moved quickly not stopping to rest and shake out until I had cleared the overhanging traverse and started into the vertical section.

Picture: Moving through the crux of White Rhino Tea, 7a.

After a quick shake out I moved into the crux sequence. I grabbed the block with my left, got my feet up, crossed over the top to get a hold slightly above but not as good. Repositioned my feet out on the left then turn my left hand into a side pull and tension my feet. The stance was really secure and I had no trouble reach up and left to a amazing incut crimp. The climb was basically done. I matched hands and moved up on easier terrain. The feeling was great and once again I stood at the top. The only logical thing to do at this point was to take a victory jump since I need to retrieve the floating trash.

Picture: Trying to get to the jugs after the crux and fighting the pump on White Rhino Tea.

I collect up my gear and called it a day. Steve, Jo and Amy were up for taking a break as well as the wind had picked up a bit and we were hungry. We went up to the restaurant and enjoyed a nice lunch and some milkshakes. We relaxed and talked for hours. When the weather start to look like it might rain I walked back to the field to break camp. My tent was mostly dry and the wind completed the task once I had clear my things out.

I packed up everything so I would be ready to leave with Amy in the afternoon. I didn’t relish the idea of carrying the 40kg of gear I was lugging around with me so I decide to trek over to Pete’s camp where he was playing cards with his girlfriend. I figured I would spend the afternoon with them playing cards and getting to know them a little more. Amy knew where I was and I figured she would turn up at the field eventually.

I joked around and played cards with Pete and his girlfriend for quite some time. Finally our stomachs got the better of us and his girlfriend decided to get up and head into town for some dinner. I hadn’t realized how late it was, and I phoned Amy. She was on her way over but it was already 6:30PM and we had planned to leave to meet up with Mike Robertson (author of the Deep Water – the deep water soloing guide book) and Meilee in Wareham.

We hit the road but didn’t make quick time and by the time we arrive in Wareham it was already fairly late. Amy and I got some take out Indian and went to Mike’s house where we ate and caught up. Both Meilee and Mike were tired from working that day so we didn’t stay up too late. So off to be we went.