Keeping Portland Weird

The next morning we all had breakfast together and wishes eachother off as Mike had things to do and Amy wanted to visit friends. Since the weather had once again turned wet we debated what to do. Meilee and I decided to spend some time in Wareham before moving on to Portland in the hopes that the “Portland microclimate” might keep the place dry.

When we arrive in Weymouth we found that Gavin was already there and climbing at “The Shed” a small private bouldering gym on Fortunes Well the largest town on Portland Isle. So we broke out our climbing shoes and had a bouldering session for a few hours then retired to the Cove, the local pub, for some beers.

When we arrive Gavin already had a table where I met Jon (AKA Ouzo), Neil and Kay; all local climbers. I took an instant liking to Jon, he had a very Zen vibe about him. His eyes had a few lines about them from smiling often and there was a kind softness to his eyes. We all shared drinks and talk before retiring for the night. Meilee had to leave the following day to go North for her mother’s birthday but she had made arrangements on my behalf to climb with Jon the following day.

That night Meilee parked the Van on top of the lookout on the Isle of Portland, only slightly illegal but she seemed confident that we wouldn’t be disturbed. The next morning I saw why, the view was breath taking the only thing that could have made it better would have been to have the sun shining but even with it being overcast the view was spectacular.

Picture: Looking back at Weymouth and Chesil Beach from Jon's place in Fortunes Well on the Isle of Portland.

We met up with Jon at a coffee shop up the hill where we had breakfast and transferred all my bags and such to Jon car. To start our climbing expedition Jon and I went to an area called “The Cuttings” which apparently was a good place since it was dry and it was also the crag that Meilee hates the most on the Isle.

The climbing was fun but certainly different that some of the other stuff I had been doing of late. The walls were vertical to slightly overhanging and the holds small, or at strange angles. After completing a few warm up climbs were were joined by “Clever Trevor”, who was very keen. We did a few more climbs including “Live By the Sword” a stellar 7a+ which I completed but didn’t have the energy to try to red point. We retired to the Cove for some beer and food then back to Jon’s.

I have to say, Jon’s house was breathtaking. He had the most amazing view of Weymouth and Chesil beach. His couch was situated so that you could sit and have breakfast or sip tea or wine while you took in the view. The house was soft with beautiful rounded rocks and crystal situated about the house.

We talked some while sitting on the couch and I found out how he used to be involved in software and hightech but made a change away from that path. He decide to quite and live a less hectic lifestyle of being a climbing guide around Portland. He predominantly teachs kids. The lifestyle is much slower pace and allowed him to have more peace in his life. He also told me about traveling to Tibet and India. Amazing journeys. He gave me a key and set me up with access to the Wifi so I could work then we went to bed.

The next day morning was leisurely and easy. I spent the day catching up on email which I hadn’t done in a while and doing some blog updates to cover the Vipassina course. The Wifi was being difficult so I had only partial connectivity so I didn’t spend too much time. That night a friend of Jon’s came over with is son, Ewan. Ewan was such a ham and we had tons of fun with him. At one point he would sit on a cushion and we tied a rope to him and videoed him sliding across the floor. It was great fun. Jon’s friend was from Sante Fez California and work for an electronics firm. I have to get his email address from Jon nad make it a point of visiting him sometime. He and Ewan and his wife were going to Tuolomean meadows for a climbing trip. He also had a great vibe about him and was one of the people who went to Tibet with Jon. That night Meilee returned from her mom’s and joined us for some wine but it wasn’t too long before Ewan and Neil had to head home.

After slurping back a coffee and chatting with some of the locals Meilee took me up to Blacknor North to get on some of the best routes of the Island. We started out with some easy 6a+ and 6bs then progressed some truly amazing climbs. I did a 6b+ called “Lord Sublock Darkvoid that breaks the chain of causation” which is just amazing and then “Burning Skies” right next to it. Both routes were amazing though I pumped out and fell off Burning skies. Then we hiked over some more and I got on “Pregnant Pause” which is a three star arete climb. A perfect cool down at 6a+.

Picture: Blacknor, Battle Ship and a few other sectors on the West side of Portland.

Picture: Raptors hunting around the cliffs at Blacknor.

The next day, Saturday, the weather was pretty crappy and so we all went to The Shed for the day. It was great because Gavin decided we needed some new problems so he started setting them for us. He made a really cool tufa pinch problem that I completely wrecked myself on. Maddie joined us at the Shed and got in a late session with Jon. Gavin, Meilee, myself and a few others went into Weymouth for the evening. We ate out and then went and watching ‘Batman: The Dark Knight’. I can now say that the its just as good if not better seeing it a second time around.

The next day the sun had returned and brought with it some high winds. Meilee, Jon, Maddie and I met the other climbers at ‘The Blue Fish’ for breakfast. We all ate well. Mike Roberson was there and wanted to shoot Meilee taking DWS falls for a magazine article so they paired off. Maddie, Jon and I headed up to Blacknor South to see if we could find some dry rock.

Picture: Sun set and moon rising.

We started climbing in the high winds which wasn’t pleasant but then moved over to find a bit of shelter. I jumped on a three star 7A+ called ‘Englands Dreaming’ which I proceded to try to red point. I came really close after getting the beta from Meilee who was working Spanerize, the route next to me. I gave it 4 goes and pulled through the crux on my last two goes but fell on a long reach just after. I decided I was too tired and it was getting late so we all packed it in and headed to the Cove for some much deserved beer.

Picture: Circle of climbing friends - Blue is Jon, White is Maddie, Red is Meilee, and me.

I stole the ‘Keep Portland Weird’ poster for an event held that day; this was one of the characteristic things about the Portland for me. As Jon explained it, its how the locals keep the place from exploding and getting priced out. The economy of Portland is supported by the two maximum security jails on the island and formerly by the Navy’s torpedo factory which has since been decommissioned.

We had dinner and I bid farewell to Gavin and some of my other new found friends as it would be the last time I would see them on this trip.

The next day was a bit rushed as I packed everything up and we grabbed a quick breakfast. Meilee dropped me off in Weymouth and I jumped the train to London. Where I made my way to the Castle to meet up with Audrey whom I would be stay with for the night.

That night I took Audrey out to an Eritrean restaurant just down the street. The food was really good, they served vegetarian toppings that was on this bread that had rye and rice flour that fermented. It had an almost sour taste to it which suited me well as I like sour food. Audrey filled me in on her and Adrian’s weekend up in North Whales as well as the van construction they were doing for their trip to visit her parents in Southern France. We didn’t stay up too late as she had to work the next day. I have to say I have been really lucky to meet such amazing and generous friends in the UK, not unlike South Africa; I will miss the way they always seemed to put a smile put on my face.

The next day I flew to Berlin.