Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Back to Baume Rousse


Another day at Baume Rousse was the order of the menu today. All I could think about was the 9 routes I did yesterday. I was pretty stiff and I'm noticing I'm not eating enough. I could really feel the calorie deficiency. I made up for it tonight by consuming a massive plate of pasta and two plates of salad plus half a baggette.

Ok, enough about the dinner plans so off we went to Baume Rousse. We chose this crag because it means we have ot pass through Buis-Les-Barronies and we hoped there would be the outdoor market which was supposed to happen every Tuesday or so we though. We arrive in town to discover no market but we did find the really good Baker from Montreal and a French special food; paine chocolate. So naturally at the high recommendations from my friend Jenny we bought two and filled our bellies with the delicious chocolate bread on our way to the crag.

The objective today was to completely climb out the left side of the crag most of the remaining ones were easy. The system is to lead one climbing then lower off and top-rope any adjacent climbs. I climbed a 5b called "Murmuroa", it was fun then TRed "La Bavette Spatiale" a 6a one move wonder and finally "Couleur d'Embruns" a 6a+ which has this nice stemming problem. Then I let Adrain take over, he cranked out a tons of routes, some 10 routes in a row. Which cleared out the Facile (easy) wall.

We walked up to the Competition Gauche (left) wall and I jumped back on the sharp end of the rope and lead "Qualif a la place du Kalife" another 6a+ of very high quality. I give it two and half stars out of three. Nice climbing up slightly over hanging rock with good holds and excellent foot holds. I followed this up with a 6a+ called "Les Mille-et-unes Buis" which was pretty easy except for three awkward moves which give it the grade. I wouldn't recommend this climb. Adrain took over and climbed a few climbs as I was getting pretty tired for my third day on.

The animals came back out to play again, this time a beautiful big red squirrel was running around on the climbs at the top of the crag. I was amazing to see how agile it was and big, the thing was like those giant over fed tree rats we have in Stanley park. ;) I was on belay duty when it came out to say hello so I didn't get a picture. Sorry guys. But the animal story I'll cover later will appear on my crackbook pictures.

I hoped on probably the best route at the entire crag a 6b+ called "Gnocchi on heaven's door", it has superb climbing on some over hung sections with tuffas. Unforetunately I missed the flash because I was too tired from attempting a so called 6c boulder problem which gets you to the base of the climb but it was still amazing and I will definitely be up for getting on that one again. Perhaps when some of the tuffa's are more dry.

I finished the day with a fun 6a+ called "No Slibards Today", this was a really fun over hanging jug haul. Only reason this climbed didn't get an easier grade was it has a single awkward section where you have to step up and out onto a ledge with marginal holds.

So we packed up and headed home stopping once more to visit the Baker from Montreal to get some more paine chocolate. When we got home I got a little surprise; my first scorpion in the sink. Yes folks instead of spiders in the sink the get scorpions. So I snapped a picture and will post it as I mentioned earlier. Me, life goals, "Find Scorpion in sink". Tick! I'll definitely be checking my shoes when I put them back on at the crag from now on. Those thing give me the willies.

Tomorrow is a rest day so hopefully I have more time to contemplate things and I'll hopefully share them here. the picture in this post is of the single rose that is just outside our door. Seem spring is coming early here.

Be well. May light and love shine on you.

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