Time to get a little more rest.

Tomorrow will make three weeks in France and from the past two days I would say I'm in need for a little more rest in order to start moving forward again. So I'm going to double up on the rest day tomorrow and start climbing again on Thursday. On the up note I got an email from my friend from Marseille, Thierry. He is going to be coming down to Saint Leger on Friday so after three weeks we will finally climb together.

As for the last couple of days, we visited Baume Rouse and today Saint Leger.

The coming off of rest day curse is continued as Adrian Toby and I returned came off a rest day. Since Toby hadn't been there yet we decided to go to Baume Rousse. When we arrived at the crag Adrian realized he had forgot his harness, so he decided to go soloing while Toby and I climbed together.

I warmed up on a 6b called "La Cicine" which is on the far left side of the crag. It was a wonderful route that goes on easy climbing to pull right out over a roof. Then straight up again to the chains.

Next we got on probably the best line at the crag "Gnocci on Heaven's Door" a 6b+ that I fell off the first time I tried it. I wasn't sure if I was warm enough for the climb but I did know the sequence so I decided to go for the red point anyway. I pulled through the crux left hand tuffa pinch and into the jugs just in time to prevent a flash pump that would have certainly ended my day. Then proceeded to take my time getting to the top.

After ticking Gnocci I set my sites back on the 7a that has been my nemisis since the first day on the trip: "L'Ecolo Net". Since its been sunny for the past few weeks the right side of it has dried out allowing for a new starting sequence to become available. Using this sequence I was able to get through the lower section with a lot more energy than on my previous attempts for this climb. I rested then moved into the crux overhanging tuffa section. After only two moves I blew off then spent the next 30 minutes trying to pull through the crux using the sequence I had developed the last time I was on this climb. I found that I was able to make it through the crux sequence but realized i was too tired and lower up.

I spent the next hour and a half relaxing and trying to get enough energy to make a second attempt. When the time came to get back on it was late in the day. I made my first few moves then fell off when I couldn't figure out the foot sequence. I tried this for the next 15 minutes moving up and then falling on the first bolt. It was clear that I wasn't climbing very well. So I packed it in and took a break. As the sun drew low I decided it wasn't not to be, cleaned off my draws and called it a day.

Today was the second day in a row I have been struggling to get myself into a state of flow. I started off by warming up on a climb that I had onsighted on my second day in France, a 6b called "Le Maitre et son Discpline". By the second bolt my right foot blew and I fell. I got back on right away and struggled my way up to finish the climb. It was a difficult climb on my second day and I climbed it in better style despite the fall but it was still a struggle.

The next climb I got on was a 6c/6c+ called "Je ne fais que passer ma route" which was an awesome route. It is very long and sustained with fair to good holds all the way up until you hit a sustained crux over a steep gray slab. I fell off fairly early on after misreading the route and then several more times at the crux slab and then again at the top. The route packs a lot of punch and I wasn't climbing a well as I could. I came down but left the quick draws in so I could red point it.

Toby and I relaxed for a good hour. During my hour I did some self examination. I thought about it and it seems like I'm thinking about each move and my body doesn't want to flow. I kept trying to figured out what was holding me back, was I distracted, am I afraid? None of these thing seem to fit. I was tired and felt like taking a nap and I was totally not psyched to get on the next route. I tried to tune into what my body was telling me and I think I'm simply too tired. I haven't give myself time to rest and recuperate enough and this my bodies way of telling me. Mind body connection never fails.

When I got back on for my second attempt I was climbing well and moving at a good pace. When I reached just before the third bolt where I had fallen last time and once more feel off after following the route. As it turns out the last time I fell at this spot I was slightly higher and had already clipped the bolt when I was off route and so when I got back on I had missed this sequence of pulls. After falling off Toby pointed out the necessary cross through to step left. Once back on I climbed my way to the top without falling. I climbed in much better style and with better technique but definitely was feeling wiped. A small victory to be sure. I am not disappointed because the climb is so good its worth doing several times to get the red point.

We'll see if the extra rest proves to be what's needed to shake the bad climbing.