Working Routes at Baume Rouse and Saint Leger

Well its been a few days since I last posted but the climbing has been slowed down lately but the addition of a third person. This was welcome in some way for me because it has given me a chance to work on trying to red point some routes as well as climb a little less so I'm better rested.

The day before last we were at Baume Rousse again. Adrian client required a lot of coaching and I only managed to get on two routes. I climbed "La Caraille" as a warm up to get me to the base of my objective "Alband Fils de Crapaud" an awesome 7a (5.11d) that starts up some jugs then moves up and left into a crack system where you climb up to a head wall then traverse right 3m on so-so holds with little feet on an overhang. Once you move right the rest if fairly easy, maybe 6b climbing to the top on jugs. I climbed the route then worked it on top rope to see if I could link up the buttom section through the crux. I almost succeeded but in the end I was too tired to link it up as we were verging on a rest day. I reclimbed to the top an cleaned the draws.

The rest day we had yesterday highlighted by finally making it to the market that happens every Wednesday in Buis-Les-Baronnies. There are all kinds of produce being sold as well as various street meet and meals. Olives and honey can be found in abundance. There was a hint of Richmond night market to the whole experience. I bought some more socks as I didn't bring enought to allow me to not have to do laundry every rest day. We also bought fresh vegetables for roasting for the evenings dinner.

Today we spent at Saint Leger. I was seeing if I could shake my post rest day rut (so far after every rest day I hve climbed quite badely). I started by red pointing an awesome 6b+ called "Piedra Salvage" which goes up this beautiful groove while you stem your way up then pull on a tuffa till you reach a roof where you step left and out. The route was stellar, definite three stars.

Next I decided to get on a route that was rated 7a+ called "Le Machine a remonter la Jam". I figured the grade was off because the old guidebook we were using has these made up fictious grades that are typically a grade easer than posted. The line looked really good and seemed to have lots of good pockets on the overhanging section. I was wrong. The climb was the full value 7a+ and a touch on the run out side having only 8 bolts in 32m of climbing. Despite the degree of difficulty the climb was worht it. After the third bolt I got into a nice state of flow. And the typical fear and nerveousness of a climb of that grade was not there. I found a no hands rest in an alcove midway up after doing a runout section above a slab. The route then pulls out on to the face where you pink your way up an overhanging tuffa then cross left hand into a good pocket. You make the clip then haul on not so good holds to the top. After taking several 20ft wipers I managed to work out the sequence at the top and pull through. I would like to try and red point this route at some time but I'll have to get better and faster at my tuffa pulling to get the tick.

It has become late in the day and the section of the wall we were climbing on had fallen into the shade so we moved over to another area where this cute Lesbian couple had been climbing. They were sitting laying in eachothers arms suntanning when we saunter up. We wanted to climb the same route as them so I ask if we could pull the rope. The were very friendly and welcoming. They allowed us to climb on their quick draws which were in "Le Torcheur D'Elephant" the 6c+ we intended on getting on. I talked with them for a while as Adrian coached Paul. Their names were Christel and Auckey. They told me they were members of a climbing club near Carpentras a large city 30 minutes drive South East. They asked where I was from and Christel's sister, it turns out, lives in Vancouver.

My turn to climbing "Le Torcheur D'Elephant" came up and off I went. The climbing was 3 star once again, the holds were amazing and the body position good. I to the crux which is only 3 meters from the anchor and missed a hold and fell. I tried again as the sun went down so that I could return the quick draws to my new friend but had forgotten the sequence I had used to solve the crux and fell once more. I guess this one will have to wait till next time. I'm not disappointed in the least because the climb is so much fun.

Tomorrow we tackle Combe Obscure and back to vertical crimp fest.

Hugs and love all. I hope the sun is still shining on you.